19’ Skiff

ptm

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Before I put the deck down should I drill drain holes through the floor frames to allow drainage?
 

Eastporter

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Great boat to fix up, Are you going to use epoxy or poly? Fiberglass the sole? Are the stringers in good shape? Now's the time
to replace if needed. I would glass the stringers down and then epoxy the floor (sole) on both sides at the very least. Mat/cloth with proper tabbing. Are you putting hatches to the bilge? You can drill limber holes in the stringers for water- or just glass the whole sole without any hatches and keep a dry bilge.
 
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ptm

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Hi Thanks,
The hull and stringers had all been sealed and are in very good condition. The stringers are fastened to the hull with what looks like thick epoxy tooled around all the edges. I don’t see any rot. I think I’ll seal everything again with epoxy before I put the floor/sole down. Great idea to do hatches. I’ll put one in each bay, no limber holes. Then try to seal the whole sole to key it dry.
 

El Mar

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I would definetly cut limber holes in the frames, seal them up with epoxy just for good measure.

Maybe put a brass tube in but that might be overkill.
 

GLA

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it looks exactly like a life boat that the life guards use here at the jersey shore,
usually two guys rowing
 

ptm

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I would definetly cut limber holes in the frames, seal them up with epoxy just for good measure.

Maybe put a brass tube in but that might be overkill.
Thanks,
Would a piece of copper water pipe be ok to use in the holes?
 

Toolate

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Thanks,
Would a piece of copper water pipe be ok to use in the holes?
Trick learned from @fvfirstteam. Take a paint roller tube and drill a hole large enough for it to slide through your frame. Then cut it to maybe 1/4” more than the thickness of the wood its going through and dip it in thickened epoxy and push it into place. Then fillet the squeeze out and you are done.

Paint roller with plastic inner tube not paper obv...
 

ptm

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Trick learned from @fvfirstteam. Take a paint roller tube and drill a hole large enough for it to slide through your frame. Then cut it to maybe 1/4” more than the thickness of the wood its going through and dip it in thickened epoxy and push it into place. Then fillet the squeeze out and you are done.

Paint roller with plastic inner tube not paper obv...
Ok. Thanks
 

ptm

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My next question.
The transom measures about 22” from the top to bottom. Should I cut it down to 20” for a 20” outboard?

5E17326D-2276-4340-82A6-2E4076AAEE31.jpeg

1CF686DB-0438-4D59-AE93-59E0CCA16214.jpeg
 

Eastporter

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Yes- you are correct. 20" for 20" leg. You can always cut more off after a sea trial if needed.
 

ptm

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Next question,
When I put down the sole and seal it all up, do the air spaces under the sole count as flotation? Is that enough flotation?
 

Eastporter

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It is pretty cheap to add rigid home insulation from Lowes or HD. That's what I did. Are you making a boat to last or just get in the water? I would glass all the new plywood and the transom then paint it all with marine enamel or epoxy paint.
 

Eastporter

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Hatches or no hatches? If it is truly a sealed bilge then it would act as flotation but still better to go with rigid insulation and then add a hatch. It is good peace of mind to see the bilge or just seal it up and don't worry about a bilge pump etc.
 

ben2go

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A dory aka Jersey Skiff. There is probably more info on the Wooden Boat Forum and maybe a source for plans if you're looking for that.
 

ptm

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It is pretty cheap to add rigid home insulation from Lowes or HD. That's what I did. Are you making a boat to last or just get in the water? I would glass all the new plywood and the transom then paint it all with marine enamel or epoxy paint.
Got it.
I’m in no rush to get it in the water.
Is Ben Moore latex floor and patio paint ok for inside? Or should I use something else?
 

Eastporter

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I've had good luck with Brightside one part paint from Interlux. I'm currently rebuilding a sailboat and using Total Boat wet edge enamel and it works okay too. I wouldn't use non-marine paint on a boat- but it is up to you.
 
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