32 Holland new build getting started soon

Discussion in 'Downeast Projects and Boat Building' started by leaky, Apr 8, 2016.

  1. MikesMarine22

    MikesMarine22 Senior Member

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    My wife- " You can bring home as many boats as you want but if you bring home another girl it's over!"

     
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  2. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Next Gen 3.5 kw - very tiny little things, 160 lbs. Single cylinder Kabota and basically standard off the shelf parts bolted together, sold and warrantied by next gen but as far as I know not much if anything at all is actually made by the vendor.

    Are basically the smallest & lightest thing on the market for a real marine generator - not super heavy duty, you change out the < 1 quart of oil every 50 hours :), but they seem to be reasonably reliable, efficient, quiet etc.. etc... Perfect for my Holland.

    Jon
     
  3. scupper1

    scupper1 Senior Member

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    Now that you are single, do you need a head? Lol
     
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  4. BillD

    BillD Captain

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    little by little
     
  5. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Haha well a few things - usually single is actually worse because it goes from "girl" to "girls" :)..

    But I can't tell you how many times I've shit in a bucket, or in a trash bag draped over a porto-potti or non working flush head, I'm tired of that.. and it sure is nice when you gotta take a piss in the harbor to be able to go down below.

    I'll admit putting a shower in there is a little over the top, and a giant pain on the complexity scale, but the huge benefit is they are a time saver - go out fishing for a couple days and you can step off the boat and head right into work or for a night out, even if you are on a mooring.
     
  6. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    In between fishing a lot lately, and getting settled into the new place in the middle of last month, I got the inside of the shoebox glassed back past the steering bulkhead.

    Next I moved onto the steering bulkhead, which needs to be completed as it does not extend out to the side of the hull. Have a couple parts cutout, glassed over corecell like the other such parts, which will be tabbed onto the steering bulkhead one one side, hull on the other, to complete the bulkhead.

    During this stage, I'm taking care of something that has been irking me for awhile - when they put the steering bulkead in they glassed over the fairly thick gelcoat that is on the exterior side of the molded part, which is how it is tabbed into the hull aft (on the forward side within the cabin there is no gelcoat), and also the part is made in two pieces which are similarly glassed together over the gelcoat, and the stringers were toed in the same way... Maybe it does not matter but I'm not a huge fan of the practice of glassing over gelcoat for something that is at least semi structural. Initially when I toed my stringer extrusions in I followed their lead as well. Currently I'm stripping back that tabbing and the gelcoat, a very nasty job, but I'm about done with the stripping on both sides now - then will be time for normal prepwork, a cleanup and putting these parts in as well as laying down sound tabbing from the steering bulkhead to the hull & stringers.

    alien.jpeg


    steeringBulkPrep.jpeg
     
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  7. BillD

    BillD Captain

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    back to the project ! Nice
     
  8. scupper1

    scupper1 Senior Member

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    C'mon man! Give us somethin!
     
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  9. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Still going, sometimes I get slow on it when I'm real busy but unless I'm out of town I squeeze in a full day over the weekend and stop over for a couple hours a night on most weeknights.

    Last thing I've been working on, getting parts installed into the head area before I find a way to break them or get goo all over them.
     

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  10. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Some pics of more recent progress...

    Other side of the bathroom, shitter is in there - there was some glass work that went on behind the shitter as well, a sheet of glass went up to basically provide a place to bolt things to, and along w/ the pedestal for the shitter there is also a pedestal for the shit tank (which is just going to be a custom glass thing).. The style I've got in the picture is a quiet flush - which uses 2 pumps, one to grind and pump out, a separate pump to fill, so the switch has 3 positions (fill, flush, fill and flush).. 2 other pumps eventually get mounted to the same area, those which will fill & empty the ballast tank that's under the forward bunk. As was the original plan - not trying to hide wiring and all that stuff in this boat, #1 concern is mounting it neatly and so things are accessible..

    shitter2.jpeg

    The bulkhead was not a full bulkhead, as is probably shown in previous pics; I completed it - larger panel on the bottom is the corecell/1708 stuff I've been using all over, the sliver up top that is partly left open due to the style of molding I just used solid glass. In this process I went all the way around on the gel coated side (after grinding down to fiberglass) and tabbed everything in a manner I just found more sound - it's definitely "one piece" now..


    steeringBulkhead2.jpeg

    steeringBulkheadComplete.jpeg

    I decored the hole for the engine, filled w/ hull and deck, then ran fiberglass over the hull and deck (because I'm paranoid about it cracking), after this pic was taken I ran a sander around and trimmed the extra glass off. Seems like a very nice way to do an edge anyway - and was not very hard either.

    Decore1.jpeg

    I should've taken a picture in between but I ran the fiberglass mold along the top of the keel (which is a water tank when this is all done), glassed over it, prepped the engine bed area, gave the stringers and everything there a final layer of 3/4 ounce matt, then gel coated - is white in the picture but that was just the unwaxed first coat - it's now grey...

    tankclose.jpeg

    engineBedGel.jpeg
    Gotta get the final engine setting figured out, then will bolt the aluminum bracketry on there - today I cut out the 4 brackets the engine will sit on. They are 3/4 inch thick X 6 X 6, may need a little trimming but I'm starting with the full 6 X 6 inch and 9 inches long. Once I have placement re-verified I'm going to secure each w/ 4 X 1/2-inch bolts.

    engineBrackets.jpeg
     
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  11. El Mar

    El Mar Captain

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    He’s back!

    We need new content, a real project.

    Too much talk of fruit and micro beads lately.
     
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  12. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Basically trying to get the engine out of the garage and into the boat. One of the details is I want to put a lateral piece of structure across the stringers, but in the fore side I want it to be a little tight to the engine so I'm not eating up excessive cabin area, in the aft side I'm concerned about creating an obstruction that gets in the way of slipping the engine into place... Depending how confident I am about exact engine placement I may add those structures before/after the engine is in, and/or I may make the aft structure something that bolts on. The engine pattern is going to come off the roof and down into place, may make an additional extremely accurate pattern of the engine mounts, see where I end up.
     
  13. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Another pic - grey engine bed and cabin door fully cutout.

    cabinDoor.jpeg
     
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  14. Diesel Jerry

    Diesel Jerry Captain

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    Glad to see some progress. I was worried that you had passed out due glassing fumes
     
  15. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Since the last pics were taken I realized I had to cut the corners down in the lower left & right of the engine cutout the opposite direction as it was potentially going to be a clearance issue with the engine. In the process I also trimmed 1/2 inch off the sides of the engine cutout on each side to widen it a bit (had way more than the clearance the engine spec requires but less than I was comfortable with and it was an easy fix now, a pain in the midst of engine installation).. In doing so I decided the "post" that is left there between the door and engine cutout was getting flimsy so gave it some extra layers fore & aft and it's real solid now...

    I cutout & drilled the engine bracketry for attachment, which is 6 X 6 X 3/4 angle aluminum. Using my pattern and a lot of reckoning/measuring/tolerance/averaging I got the brackets initially pinned in place last night with 2 holes each; I need to determine if I need to tone down any of the camber with a bit of fiberglass laid on there to create a wedge (ie the tall section of stringers have a little outward camber), then will drill the rest of the holes, trim the brackets a bit, re-finish the engine bed area, get the brackets bolted on there, and work on the logistics of getting the engine in..

    I set the brackets ~2 inches low in the process - two shims will go under each engine foot, one that is 1.25 inches thick, one that is something like 3/4 but I will have multiple options to choose from on hand when putting the engine in pre cut & drilled.. That solves a couple problems, #1 by making clearance between the engine mounts and the bottom of the brackets it allows the brackets to be longer than needed without interfering with the engine which allows for adjustment fore/aft, #2 it gives me alot of room for error in height adjustment so before I start adjusting the mounts I should have the engine fairly well lined up height-wise.

    After the engine is in, there will be some structures added fore/aft of the engine connecting the stringers together; I decided to do those later as it's the simplest way to make everything fit well and does not interfere with accessing engine parts, the exhaust, etc..
     

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  16. Diesel Jerry

    Diesel Jerry Captain

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    I would gusset the hangers. Probably overkill, but would be bullet proof.
    Also I would use Tefgel on all your hardware where steel, stainless steel, and aluminum come into play.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2019
  17. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Thanks Jerry - will look into the Tefgel.

    When I take the hangers off and re-gelcoat I may have a small gusset added dead center while I work on other logistics, however my thinking is if you can use 1/2 inch without gussets for heavier diesel engines like I've seen, then 3/4 inch for a lighter engine is already overkill - also the stuff I've got is the style that is rounded on the inside and not a square angle, so it's got a sort of built in gusset to it - the stringers themselves will have a lot more flex in them than the hangers will that's for sure.
     
  18. Diesel Jerry

    Diesel Jerry Captain

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    you are right, I missed that they we 3/4 and just saw your cross section pics. I think your all set.
     
  19. cb34

    cb34 Captain

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    4 mounts on the motor? Gear?
     
    cb34,

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