32 Holland new build getting started soon

Discussion in 'Downeast Projects and Boat Building' started by leaky, Apr 8, 2016.

  1. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    I got the rest of the holes drilled for the motor mounts today and I torqued the bolts down to what is hopefully their final place.. will give it a once over fine align while I got everything out to do it, but of course it isn't final and its going to get re done a couple times more at least once the boat sees the water.
     
  2. leaky

    leaky Captain

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  3. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    From experience I would make a plywood top for it that rests on some blocks of rigid foam that sit on the valve covers. Then wrap it in plastic and tape it air tight and put that work bench on top of it so you can put all your shit there and step on it if need be. Well worth the time it will take to have a central/flat bench and keep the dust off it until the end. Progress!
     
  4. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Well so in aligning it I ended up having to pick it back up and set it down once more, basically it had set itself down a bit twisted on the slot of the front feet and the way steel digs into aluminum it just would not budge over, in trying to adjust 1/8 of misalignment out of the feet the trunion position I wasn't happy with, shaft no longer was centered on the tube. Lifted it back out, put my mounts back to center, dropped it back down with attention paid to holding it sqare and it was good.

    Oh and then I realized it wasn't that I was missing my .003 feeler, had been using a .0025 instead- it was they were so perfectly stuck together I was using both :).. eventually figured that out and got aligned to .003 (and not .0055)..

    BTW for the next guy. I did some quick math - if you had a .008 gap and 40 inches between engine mounts the required adjustment to fix the gap is about 1/16 inch...

    Found some nice nylock jam nuts that were perfect for locking the bolts in place on rear feet. Bolted shaft coupler to transmission, put on engine tailpipes, took some notes about what is torqued and not, plasticized the engine and now moving onto other things..

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  5. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    After learning way more than I want to know on the subject I finally got my ac unit on order, when it arrives will play some more tetris but setup to check fitment on generator and water heater now (blue thing off in corner). Not sure which way generator gets orientated yet (ie across beam or stem to stern)..

    As silly as it is not sure where to put a bulkhead that goes behind engine because im not sure exactly how exhaust runs because im not sure exactly where AC unit goes :).. but pleanty of other things to do in meantime.

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  6. El Mar

    El Mar Captain

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    What generator is that? Looks like a nice compact unit.
     
  7. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Next gen 3.5 kw. Basically its a kabota single cylinder and off the shelf parts. 160 lbs and about 15 x 15 x 28 inches. Lots using them in bigger boats but perfect for small boats.
     
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  8. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Really neat little things, ugly bracket is just my lifting eye.

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  9. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    So other than having a massive patch of aluminum on my deck, I could put the generator, water heater, and up to 28 gallons of diesel here (ie 4 days worth at full throttle :) ) without any trouble, even servicing the generator there's pleanty of room.

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  10. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    My original idea of orientation that I am still leaning toward, with about the same size tank aft of the generator but the heater elsewhere. Using this method hatches install lot better since Im not running up to stringers underneath. I think Id drop a 24 x 36 over it, big enough for stupid easy access to the generator and if I wanted to I could pull the generator out and slide the fuel tank forward and yank it out if needed too.

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  11. scupper1

    scupper1 Senior Member

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    Whats your plan for soundproofing it?
     
  12. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    None really, these things are fairly quiet to begin with. May put a layer of sound down on the underside of the hatch but its otherwise pretty well sealed off.

    The deck on this boat will have no framing, just angle fiberglass a bit above stringers, basically engine and generator share a nearly airtight area that only has input vents at the transom.
     
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  13. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    I have a Kohler 5k which I am sure is much louder but its still pretty quiet or so I thought. Last winter removed to “rebuild” and the sound enclosure was too rough to re-use so I installed it without and the difference in noise levels was astonishing. Ended up building an enclosure using 1/2” pvc sheet material and lining it with soundown foam and it reduces the noise to about 1/5 of what it was.

    Main issues is all the hard surfaces and access to the bilge which allows the sound to reverberate and run throughout the boat in the bilge. So, I suggest you have a plan anyway. If I were you (don’t you hate when people say that? :) I would put that generator on a flat sheet of some sort that projected beyond its footprint by 1 1/2” or so to allow you a flat plane to build a box off later if your wife says she wont sleep on the boat... or maybe that is the plan?
     
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  14. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    This should help. Vibration pads. Like Toolate said.
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Hey guys - those are great ideas! Thanks!

    So one problem I've been trying to figure out with this generator is I wish they built the feet more like a propulsion engine where if you set the generator down on a flat surface the oil pan would hit first. What they did instead (which is normal but not ideal for fitting into a tight space) is the feet hit first, ie sorta on the assumption that you are setting the generator down on a surface you could shoot lag bolts into, which I can't obviously..

    It is rubber mounted, so it's got the vibration part at least somewhat covered - although maybe I could loose the factory motor mounts and instead use something like those vibration pads, which would give me clearance to make little pedestals - not sure though vibration pads are going to be as good as the rubber motor mounts it's got.

    My original idea I've been working on is to fabricate an aluminum "U" - out of say flat stock that is 4 inches wide and 3/8 thick (just enough to tap into), which would have gussets in the corners and would sit on the bottom of the hull, bolted to the stringers on the sides, set just a bit above the hull with some rubber spacers in between (so it's not vibrating on the hull, eating fiberglass and making noise).. There would be 2 of them, one to catch the front feet, one to catch the rear feet..

    That PVC board idea I like a lot - did not want to put something down on the bottom of the hull that's going to absorb water like typical sound proofing, not that it should be wet there but any tiny trickle that ever exists would just be absorbed and that stuff often likes to stay wet.. but also needed to put something down under those brackets. PVC board on the other hand, I could put a later of 3/8 PVC board down first, which would be my spacer (and even if it wore into the PVC board a bit it's never going to drop 3/8 into the hull because I'll make sure the U mounts will not allow it).

    Jon
     
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  16. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    The rubber pad whoever you use/mfg keeps the metal base off direct contact with water making the frame life a lot longer.
    My home generator frame sat in some water now it's suspect to failing/rot.
    Nice Boat work Sir!
     
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  17. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    With all the glassing you have done I would make some little pedestals for it out of wood and glass them down so you can use your lag screw idea. The motor mounts looks like y would each take 2 #12 screws anyway. So much to decide I know it can be overwhelming until you have all the parts in front of you. Should be very little load on the fasteners really.

    Cool little unit. I checked out their website but didnt see a sound enclosure for these- do they make one? If so might preserve your ability to just add one later rather than build one.
     
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  18. Blitzen

    Blitzen Captain

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    3.5 Kw sound enclosure pictured. s-l1600.jpg
     
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  19. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    The issue is I've only got a max of 1 inch to work with (leaving a 3/4 buffer under the deck) otherwise Im raising the deck more than I want to.

    I may end up making solid glass low profile pedestals on a 3/4 to 1 inch budget, ie with the bolts coming up from the bottom like studs. Seems do able, 1/4 buffer under them, 1/4 for head of bolt, 1/4 of glass.

    It's actually stronger and easier, better, to just take a piece of glass you layup on a table as a form. Like my little piece of cabin sole i put on today below.

    The encloser though its just a no can do. Probably the only 32 holland with a sub deck generator and Im able to pull it off in a fairly normal setup so happy even if its a little louder :)

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  20. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    I got the generator install figured out, going to use 4 little glass pedestals, set 5/8 above the bottom of the hull, molded off a 2x4. Bolts will be perfectly sized/shimmed to just make it through the nut and I will use jam locknuts nuts underneath. Its simple but a little cumbersome, nothing for a half ass mechanic to hold the nut in place with a pair of pliers but might drive the less inclined insane :)..

    Tonight I patched some 1.5 inch corecell scraps together that just happened to be perfect for the member connecting the stringers just forward of the engine, glassed a piece of cabin sole in, and made my molded stock for the generator mounts.

    Theres just a little piece of sole/keel/bilge left to be fancy footed shut - is where the water tank in the keel meets the bilge. An access point, bulkhead down in the keel, fittings/pickup, bilge pump and access for it all is in the last 18 inches such that the exposed rigging/plumbing hides behind the engine box. Couple parts to finish it off show up weds.

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