Chesapeake Classic 24 Rebuild

Discussion in 'Downeast Projects and Boat Building' started by reynolds.mitchell, Sep 11, 2019.

  1. reynolds.mitchell

    reynolds.mitchell Member

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    So I have been asking a few questions around here lately and really have appreciated all the help. The discussions and information sharing on here is really top notch.

    I am starting a total rebuild of a 24 Chesapeake Classic. I picked the boat local from waterman who used and abused it her whole life. Transom is soaked, stringers mush and gunnel cap has more holes then swiss cheese. My plans are to rebuild everything and then add a cuddy cabin to the front. I am not gong to enclose the cabin just need something to take the weather off of me when the bay gets choppy. I'll try and keep up with my post as the build continues and will take any feedback along the way on things I am doing wrong. I have a general understanding of what needs to happen but very limited experiences.

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    Last edited: Sep 11, 2019
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  2. reynolds.mitchell

    reynolds.mitchell Member

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    So far the transom has been gutted and am waiting for a quote from a local boat yard on 1.5" Coosa. I made a template as the idea of cutting a sheet of something that expensive is a major concern. Not gonna lie, I underestimated the amount of work digging a transom out is. Much respect to those that do this for a living.
     

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  3. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    Looking good. I've never seen the roof rack for pots before. Are you keeping that or sawzall??
     
  4. reynolds.mitchell

    reynolds.mitchell Member

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    Its going cause it just wood, however I will be replacing with an extended house top for the same purpose. Most of the workboats around here have tops similar for both shade and to haul pots.
     

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  5. reynolds.mitchell

    reynolds.mitchell Member

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    So question for all you builders out there. After measuring the template, I realized it's just over 8' by about an 1 1/2". With coosa costing what it does I'm really trying to get away with one sheet of 1 1/2 for the transom. Am I ok cutting the transom shape and splitting the difference, giving me a 3/4" gap between the coosa and hull sides? Then making up this gap with thickened resin before tabbing, or do i bite the bullet and use two sheets spliced together? With the angle of the hull sides there will only be a 3/4" gap running vertically on both sides for about the first few inches.
     
  6. kcassells

    kcassells Captain

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    Use the 1 pc. and add wood with peanut butter to fill the side gaps. Not straight PB, add wood. Then that will get tabbed to the sides, bottom etc.
    Also scoop out a pc. on the bottom so you can add a bilge, garboard drain. That pocket should be filled complete with glass reinforced pb. Insert pc. of pvc while it's wet for the actual drain.
    Benefit is that there is no wood in the drain area.
    On another note the depth of the transom should be the same as what you took out to match up to your inny/outty mfg.'s motor specs for mounting.
    Here's some good reads;

    1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED w/Pics Page: 42 - iboats Boating Forums | 394579

    1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED w/Pics Page: 16 - iboats Boating Forums | 394579
     
  7. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Just glue a strip of what will be scrap to make it a couple inches longer, or alternatively build it with 2 sheets of 3/4 arranged together so you do not have a seem running all the way through it and glue it that way - then cut.. Another option is I believe they also sell 10 foot sheets.

    Or if the coosa is just so painfully/scary expensive consider doing a nice job with marine plywood and Vinylester or 2 part epoxy.. Marine ply costs much less than coosa and comes in 10 footers too. If done well it will outlive all of us.
     
  8. reynolds.mitchell

    reynolds.mitchell Member

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    Unfortunately the Coosa was ordered before I realized the exact length needed. The idea of glueing cutoffs was something that had not crossed my mind when I posted. It's a great idea, simple solution and one that I will be using. Its not that Coosa so outrageous that I can't feed my family however just really not trying to screw up expensive material. As far as using plywood, I realize that is a viable option and one that is still in play through the marine industry today. However, being a workboat and needing to drill several holes in the transom to mount equipment that I know will change at some point in this boats future, I want to reduce the chances of transom rot as much as I can. My hope is that my son can have this boat someday and not need to go through the same process. If composites will give me that chance, then they are worth every penny.
     
  9. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    What are you going to use for resins when you glass over the inside of the transom?.. What are you going to bed the coosa in when you set it against the transom outer skin?

    Just asking that to give you an idea on the "glue" to use.. If you were going to glass w/ polyester or vinylester resin and bedding w/ hull & deck putty I'd glue your pieces on with hull & deck, not a perfect adhesive but good enough since you will be bedding it on one side and glassing on the other for instance.. If you were using epoxy then obviously that's your glue right there... Just I would not glue w/ epoxy then go about bedding it in hull & deck and glassing w/ a PE or VE since if there is exposed epoxy it could cause defects in the work...

    There are of course also bedding & bonding compounds for bonding cores to fiberglass structures, ie core-bond.

    Jon
     
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  10. south shore

    south shore Senior Member

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    Just a thought.
    But if you lay your template centerline straight on the short side of the coosa panel the deadrise angle facing up may give you enough to get the same cut inverted on the top side. Then you will only have one seam in the center that you can PB. and glass up inside and out with no gaps to fill in.
    Remember measure twice cut once
     
  11. kcassells

    kcassells Captain

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    No seam in the center, loss of strength. On another note I wouldn't waste my time gluing extensions on the sides of the transom either. Useless in my opinion....
    I would as I suggested add a filler in wood on the sides set in pb and glass it flush to the transom. You said it's only 3/4" max ea. side. A gluey add on wont do poop for strength.
    JMHO.
     
  12. reynolds.mitchell

    reynolds.mitchell Member

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    I fully understand the issue of epoxy and esters not mixing. However that is my plan. I am going to bed the coosa with thickened epoxy being very careful to clean up any squeeze out. Once cured I will go about making fillets and glassing with polyester. The way I see it. If I bed with epoxy, then fillet and tab with epoxy, when it comes time to glass and tab stringers to transom then I will epoxy there as well. I get the secondary bonding argument for epoxy and most believe that epoxy is the second coming of some sorts. However, I feel that given enough tooth and properly cleaned poly or vinyl ester will be just fine.
     
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  13. Quik Fix 16

    Quik Fix 16 Senior Member

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    You can easily start a war with the epoxy cult. The whole boat is built with polyester. Your repairs would probably be good with polyester. JMO of course.
     
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  14. 22Cuttyhunk

    22Cuttyhunk Member

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    If it is just a 3/4" gap on both sides I would fill it with the excess filler after putting the core in place.
     
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  15. kcassells

    kcassells Captain

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    Doesn't matter if he's using polywannacracracker or EEEPPPoooXXXyyy to make the bond of the transom. They all work. That 3/4' Gap on either side is a big nothing.
    The strength for the inny/outyy transom is putting down a whole pc. of ply with NO CENTER seam.
    You can mix up poly and epoxy but you need to get rid of the blush from the epoxy for the poly to bind. typically a nightmare to gelcoat a combination of both but has been done.
    It's the bilge so who cares how you paint or seal it.
    Personally I wouldn't mix it up but your boat so do what you want. Pick 1 and move forward with that product. Not a new conversation.
    Prep...prep...prep. :}
     
  16. reynolds.mitchell

    reynolds.mitchell Member

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    So a little update and a couple of questions. Materials have been ordered and most have arrived. Got my shipment in of resins, glass and all associated supplies. However ordering this coosa has been way more of a hassle then it needed to be. Apparently, the state of Maryland is a desert for fiberglass supplies. After numerous phone calls, plenty of "no we don't sell to little guys" ect., I was finally able to get an order placed for 1.5" which should be here any day now. Only took a phone call directly to coosa :mad: to get what I needed from a local vendor. Sheesh!!! Anyways, as I think through future steps I have a few questions that come to mind. At some point this boat has been under the knife and whoever did the work before me was quite the hack. When it comes to fitting stringers and setting the pitch of the deck, do yall have any tricks up your sleeve to get this right. The boat had a slight list to starboard and was a little stern heavy. I associate that to soaked wood and when everything goes back together, using the scum line as a point of reference seems a little risky. The deck drained just fine before, however there wasn't a cabin on the front and the transom will be a few pounds lighter now. Im looking for a way to check my measurements so that I don't have standing water at the helm.
     
  17. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    It is absolutely not always that simple to use polyester and epoxy products together.

    Sometimes with simple prep as you describe polyester can cure and bond ok. Sometimes it won't cure at all. Sometimes it cures but wont bond...

    Ive done it, a good bit of it, and I can tell you its just asking for trouble. And Im a huge epoxy fan.

    Even if you think you have a process down, minor differences in the process can throw things off, ie specific types of epoxy and polyester, the weather. Ive had one spot on an epoxy hull that for indescribable reasons gelcoat cured fine elsewhere but not there - was unquestionably cured underneath but took me a few attempts to get a even tie coat of hot straight resin to cure. And thats after washing, sanding, washing, everything you read that "works".

    I highly do not reccomend the inexperienced messes with putting poly over epoxy except maybe if you must have gelcoat and the area is reasonably easy to work on so any failures can be stripped and started over.
     
  18. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    Worth mentioning - if you want a better bond than polyester but not epoxy, vinylester is the simple in between thing. Works about like polyester, is completely compatible (you can even blend the two), but bonds stronger, is stronger, and is more waterproof. Comes at a cost between polyester and epoxy.

    Add: one thing to mention with VE is it does have a more finicky curing curve, ie if you cut the hardener down too far it may not cure, when it does cure it goes with little warning. If you over do it in a thick section it can over generate heat. Generally the working time is shorter. It is not hard to use but you gotta mind your working time more than with polyester, ie work in smaller sections/batches so you dont get busted with resin curing before your glass is set down how you want it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2019
  19. kcassells

    kcassells Captain

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    Hey at the end of the day I tell everyone to finish with what you start. Pick 1 and be done with it.
    Your boat you can do what you want.
    Concur Leaky!
     
  20. Fishnjess

    Fishnjess Senior Member

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    If the deck is still there, I always say use the marble or ball bearing trick. Drop it on the centerline of the deck and see where it rolls. What I should say is take a measurement of the deck space and from you helm to your stern suppers. Raise it up a little on the center of the deck at the helm and pitch it gradually to the starboard stern. Around 1/8 per 2 feet of deck space aft. It’s gonna run back towards the lowest point. That how I fixed the same problem with mine. But beware of punky or soaked wood rebuilding over a rot spot can be risky.
     

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