Downeast skiff Project

JerseyBros

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Drove up to NH today to pick up my first Downeast hull, a little 16’ skiff.
I think it has really nice lines, it looks very similar to the Holland 14. the 50 Johnson runs strong, previous owner stated it runs about 35 on the pins. (I will be cleaning it up this week and hopefully splash next weekend to confirm)

The floor has a couple spots that need some quick fiberglass work, and I plan to put down some of the faux teak following the repairs.
Over the winter I plan to scrap the side console and build a teak helm pod with recessed electronics similar to the first pic.

I look forward to this little project and will update as I make progress.

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kcassells

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Congrats!
If thats real teak floor you should figure out how to save it. If you have soft spots like you mentioned then more than likely the stringers are shot.
You need to investigate the transom and stringers. . A drilling with a 1/4" bit and slowly back out. Wood shavings should be dry.
Boats rot from the bottom up.
Just saying. Nice looking boat!
 

JerseyBros

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The top pic is just a picture of what I’m hoping to do over the winter.

There is a little “vee berth” style forward boxes that need to be ripped out and re-glassed. I may make the bow that height but a full width casting platform.

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JerseyBros

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Now that it’s starting to get warmer out I got a chance to rip up the floor to start my redo...

As it turns out I’m going to have to strip everything down to the bare hull, once I got the floor up the stringers were obviously rotten. The foam blocks underneath the floor are so waterlogged I should save a considerable amount of weight once it’s all out.

Slightly disappointed at the extend of the rot, came in expecting just the floor. But I’m all in for this right now and I’ll be going for it until it’s done!

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Keelboater

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That's not a skiff. It's a yacht.......at least according to that capacity plate. ;) Now you have to buy yacht insurance! :D Good luck with the project.
 

kcassells

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Bummer... but will be better than factory build! Now you own it or does she own you?
 

JerseyBros

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So my plan is to get this off the trailer and onto the flat driveway for the stringer replacement. I need to remove the outboard to facilitate lifting the boat on and off the trailer.

Was thinking of building an A-Frame to hang the motor from temporarily while I’m working on the stringers.
Would I be better off building an engine stand and figuring out some way to lift the 200lb engine on and off the boat?

Hoping to fabricate something and get the engine off tomorrow.
 

kcassells

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Potratable engine hoist with flywheel eye ring then roll it out of your way. Like 100.00 harbor freight.
I use it on my old Johnson 225 with no prob. Then put it on the frame. Mine like 400-500 lbs.
 

JerseyBros

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I’m second guessing myself a little here, need some Downeast boat design help!

The hull has a slight “hook” to the keel. Is this typically normal for a Downeast skiff? I was suggested on another site to lay her on my flat driveway while I’m pulling out the stringers to get rid of any hook. But now I’m concerned that it was there for a reason... Advise?

On a brighter note I made an engine stand after work today.

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Eastporter

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I've never seen a keel with a hook in it. Did it have that when you bought it? Maybe the boat "racked" with not enough support in the bilge.
 

Yesac13

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I recall reading about the Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff ... a 15 footer designed by Joel White. He copied the lines off an existing boat designed by Jim Steele then modified it slightly.

It had a slight hook in the stern - supposedly helped it run better - keeps the bow down. That is what I recall. So I would say... don't worry about the hook, it may be deliberate.

Powerboats - Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff

More about the slight concave (that hook)...

A Lapstrake Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff - Small Boats Monthly
 

JerseyBros

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So I got the old stringers out today, and replaced with fresh lumber. Sealed up the tops of the stringers with a layer of epoxy and 1.5oz csm.
Busy day, and happy to finally be putting things back together after what seemed like an eternity of grinding all week.

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kcassells

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Hey not for nothing but looks like you should have cleaned/grinded all the glass on the sides of the stringers so you had clean glass to bond to. 1st lap should be @ 4" to the hull with the next 1, 2" wider. So clean grinds @ 6" off sides of stringers.
From the pics just saying I can't tell.
3/4" ply exterior grade abx, bcx, cdx, would have been structurally more sound vs. 2x4's dimensional woods. Also dimensional lumber gases off from being green and makes glass bubbles.
Just somethings to review. At the end of the day your rehab will be BETTER than factory!
 

JerseyBros

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I actually saved all the original glass from the stringers sans the top... structurally it is all there! The wood is probably not doing anything except holding the shape, I glassed just the tops to cap it just to seal the wood from rot more than anything else, just one layer of mat and epoxy.

It definitely was butchered at one point previously rebuilt because the stringers were already cut the tops off and the wood was screwed into place through the original glass. The original stringers are several layers of heavy woven cloth with csm on the inside.

When I removed the screws the wood literally pulled out with no force.

For the new: I mixed thickened epoxy and fully coated the new lumber as it dropped into the “slot” for each stringer, let dry and then came back and capped the tops of everything with one layer of glass and epoxy like I said to just seal it in.

I almost thought about foam filling the void in the stringers but I had already bought the lumber and figured it would give me a slight structural advantage even though probably not needed.
 
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