Fiberglass I-beam deck framing?

Discussion in 'Downeast Projects and Boat Building' started by Dyer29HoldFast, Dec 3, 2019.

  1. Dyer29HoldFast

    Dyer29HoldFast Member

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    Was wondering if anyone could give me some insight on using the prefab glass beams for deck construction. I haven't been able to surface any pics after endless web searching. Definitely going this route on my dyer29. Any info would be greatly appreciated
     
  2. SlowLoris

    SlowLoris Member

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    They are pultruded Fiberglass beams (FRP) made by companies such as strong well. Come in a variety of shapes and sizes.
    You can bond them with sika 291i, spabond, pro-set, thickened epoxy, etc when prepped properly (aggressively sanded). Read through strongwells catalogue and they give a range of options of how to bond them together.
    I bought a bunch of 4x4’s from Hamilton marine on clearance last year and used them on everything from framing to supports. The stuff is beefy and not super easy to work with (need big gear to cut) but it works very well for holding deck structure.
     
  3. CEShawn

    CEShawn Captain

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    LBI Fiberglass has them, but they are heard to get or long lead time. I did the angle for projects and loved it, now trying to get the 2x4" and they are having problems keeping it in stock... looking as well...
    lbifiberglass.com
     
  4. Dyer29HoldFast

    Dyer29HoldFast Member

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    Looking for pics or a build thread of someone using them on their boat
     
  5. Squider42

    Squider42 Senior Member

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    Go on SW Boatworks website has many pics of what you are looking for.
     
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  6. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    Check out Bill's build thread for his Midland 19' as he used the composite stringers and decking.
     
  7. Dyer29HoldFast

    Dyer29HoldFast Member

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    Thanks fellas
     
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  8. goin4broke

    goin4broke Captain

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    I looked into the ibeam thing for my build but decided to go a different route. The TJason being a “beamy” boat I ended up with some spans that didn’t make economical sense.

    Suppliers I looked into sold in 10 or 20 foot lengths. There would have been about 25% waste in my situation which meant too many dollars going into my dumpster.

    Hopefully you don’t have that issue. Been somewhat time consuming going with plan B.
     
  9. Dyer29HoldFast

    Dyer29HoldFast Member

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    I'm only 9.5 in beam . The dyer29 is my first boat. Love it to death. Figured I'd get it to my specs. What I want, your talking 150k+. I only paid 8,750 for the HoldFast, originally the Silt Slipper (what a terrible name).
    Plan B always sucks.
    I was going to replace my washboards/ gunnels with plascore and 1708. Ran out of time due to weather. Had to go with wood. Mehh
     
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  10. CEShawn

    CEShawn Captain

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    If your on Facebook, can follow South Shore Boat Works - he just did a 25 Gurnet Point with them. I'd be interested in using them near the engine where heat is for sure, I have issues with 2x4' drying out a bit, but also they lasted nearly 20+ years too.
     
  11. Frigate

    Frigate Senior Member

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    Here are two pictures of fiberglass wide flange beams Flower's manufactured and put in our boat.

    19.jpg

    DSCN0120.jpg
     
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  12. goin4broke

    goin4broke Captain

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    I hear ya! Boats are a compromise in all respects. Thing that has become crystal clear to me in this whole process is, if you have the money you don't have the time, and if you have the time you don't have the money.

    Best of luck in your endeavor.

    Hey Frigate, you guys hold poker games down in that bilge?
     
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  13. Raider Ronnie

    Raider Ronnie Captain

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    I had a conversation with either Ken or Dave about the “manufactured fiberglass beams”
    They told me they make their own because not matter how much you grind or wash with acetone resin doesn’t bond well to the manufactured ones like Strongwell. they always give off a wax or some other chemical that’s slick.
    When I did the deck in my BHM I made up my own fiberglass angle.
     
  14. hmscapecod

    hmscapecod Member

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    I have used the I-beams and box tube from strongwells and had the same questions. I did some testing for myself and I think you should too in order see if the bond is good enough. In my test, I ground off the gloss and glassed 2 pieces together back to back, a lap joint. 4 inches long was the glassed part. The beams were 8 feet long so i would have some leverage to break it apart. I pulled it apart a few days later, and the strongwell material itself came apart, and my glass stayed stuck to the strongwell part. I have no problem using it. Has any one else done some testing?
     
  15. plyandglass

    plyandglass Senior Member

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    Dyer 29, we used the green pultruded I beams years ago on custom sportfish boats in the salon over the engine room , mitered the corner intersections and used aluminum angle and 5200 thru bolted with composite panels glued and screwed for deck. we used 3 x 5 as I recall. we also used them for deck support stanchions thru bolted at stringers , not the cheapest way but very sturdy,
     
  16. Frigate

    Frigate Senior Member

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    goin4broke no poker games but a lot easier to work on the big yellow beast down there.

    Ronnie, I think I should have used made by themselves instead of manufactured.

    At the time we were looking at boat boater builders, Atlantic Boat showed us a boat with hard plastic beams and supports. They said they could not find anything that bonded to it. So they bolt it like a steel frame for a building. All I could think of was nuts, bolts and washers rolling around in the bulge.
     
  17. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    I noticed that Sargent's Boat Works is using aluminum welded together for part of their support system for sole. It seems to be light and strong. Probably pretty fast fabrication if you are bolting to existing stringers.
     
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  18. LadyMaureen

    LadyMaureen Captain

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    I did same....way cheaper too. Just built a cheap mold out of plywood to make the shape I wanted
     
  19. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    Is there a reason why you need large areas open? I could understand a fish hold, or another commercial application, but its a dyer 29. Why not support from the stringers which is more typical with deck construction. Nidacore decks are extremely light and stiff. Extending the stringers vertically with a nidacore or another type of core is pretty easy to do. Lightening holes cut into these frames give access to areas outside the stringers.
     
  20. Raider Ronnie

    Raider Ronnie Captain

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    I used steel angle iron.
    Waxed it up and laid up till I had the thickness I wanted.
    It was a bit of a learning curve at 1st to not get it to close up the angle & curl in as it kicked but I figured it out.
     
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