Project 21 Repco 1974

Discussion in '"Pocket" Downeast Boats (14-24ft)' started by 26novi, May 22, 2018.

  1. 26novi

    26novi Member

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    My grandfather bought this beauty in 1991 and died shortly after, my dad and uncle ran her for a few seasons after that. Her stern sank about 20 years ago but she was refloated quickly and ran another season but has been sitting on the hard since. My uncle gave me the boat and I plan on doing an entire restoration to bring her back to life as a commercial bass/tuna boat, rec lobster and general beach cruiser for cape cod. I have a few ideas but this being my first serious restoration and first experience with a downeast I would appreciate any advice you can give. I am competent working with electric, fiberglass, metal and wood but lack knowledge in material selection and general boat construction. Sorry for all the questions but I know someone on here has this knowledge so cant hurt to ask! Open to any opinions on the refit as well so don't hold back. Plenty more questions are sure to follow, still working on the demo but would like to have her floating by next spring. I want to make sure I do this right so she can live on for another 40+ years so not trying to skimp on anything that will hinder that. Thank you for any and all help I will be sure to post pictures as I make progress.

    This hull is not cored, would it be beneficial to the ride quality to core it with marine ply (or similar) and fiberglass?
    I need to replace the stringers as they are rotten, what material is best?
    Needs a new deck badly, what wood type? Fiberglass just the top or bottom too?
    I plan on getting an Armstrong bracket made and putting new power on, any suggestions on HP? Probably going with Yamaha but could be talked out of it.
    Once I have the boat stripped down to the hull I am going to soda blast and make any repairs, was planning on using awl grip to paint the boat inside and out, any other recommendations? Primer/sealer first?
    The house will likely need to be rebuilt, what material should I use? Should I fiberglass it or just seal/paint the wood?
    I want to add a new hydraulic pump for the hauler, any brand or size recommendations?
    I would like to add fold out (or IN) windows and a hatch for the cabin, anyone know a good seller or brand, Could make them myself but figured someone builds them.
    Was planning on adding some trim tabs or the new zip wake system, necessary?
    Needs new rails as they are rotten pretty bad, was unscrewing a rod holder and the screw gun slipped and went through. what material should I use? Planning on glassing over it as well to avoid this in the future.
    I typically use marglass to fillet and smoothe a surface before glassing over, is this best?
    Needs a new rubrail all around, would like to go with a nice wood and varnish it, mahogany? Teak?
    The keel is hollow, should I add a stringer down the middle and glass it in or is this good for drainage?
    Any other questions I should be asking?
     

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  2. nick5446

    nick5446 Member

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    Great project. I have a '71 Repco 21 that's new to me too. So far, I'm enjoying it a lot!
     

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  3. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    This time Sportcraft 222 w/225 OB Johnson..wishing for a DE
    Structurally there are so many products out there today so it's all about affordability. You'll get input from alot of good guys here.
    Big learning curve but it's all about research and understanding the uses/limitations/applications etc. and ching/ching.
    Oh yea the labor is free!;)
    When you take that piggy apart take lots of pics for future references and measurement. You'll need them.
    Shot you a pm
     
  4. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    Sold- 20' Eastporter (Rebuilt 2011) 22' Pearson Ensign
    Eastporter 20' 1976/2011 Rebuild

    My Eastporter 2o' is similar to your Repco. Check out my rebuild. Plywood is cheaper than composites. They are both good materials to use if properly done.
     
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  5. 26novi

    26novi Member

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    Awesome lots of good info there, boat looks great nice work!
     
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  6. Old Mud

    Old Mud Captain

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    Great project you have there. By the time your through you will know every inch of that boat. That's not a bad thing. I might suggest before you get to far into it to make up a cradle to hold her shape throughout you're restoration. With the house, wash rails and stringers removed she will be flimsy. It's pretty easy to build a warp into the hull that way. You should inspect the fuel tank for leaks, pitting etc.
     
  7. Ryan75

    Ryan75 Member

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    B45F8BC8-2AC3-4EE8-9B5E-99169FC43ABC.jpeg Looks like a great project. Soft riding and slippery boat through the water. I have a repco that I have partially redone. Still have to do the house and a few other things but she’s in the water being used. Be happy to answer any questions that I can.
     
  8. 26novi

    26novi Member

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    Ryan, boat looks great I cant wait to get mine floating. After a great fishing season I am starting to pick work back up. First order will be to repair and reinforce the transom for a bracket and new power. Can you share some numbers on what performance you are getting with the 140 zuki? I was thinking a 115 yammy but more is always better.
     
  9. Ryan75

    Ryan75 Member

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    I would take it easy and usually cruise around 16kts. That was at 3500 rpm if I remember right. It would turn up 5800-6000 but I didn’t wind it up much. Up over 20 she would get a little lively and I never could tell if it was starting to keel walk or would just lay over a bit due to a list I had from the battery weight. I didn’t have any any lifting rails but I’m sure that would help a lot. I also couldn’t trim the engine up basically at all without cavitating. I mounted the motor about 1/2” low but never messed with the mounting after the initial setting. Maybe a little lower would help? Not sure. I always thought I was getting bad water to the prop off that 3/4 skeg. But she does ride nice with her bow down no slap at all in wakes or small to med chop. Hope that helps
     
  10. 26novi

    26novi Member

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    Thats quite a bit slower than I would have thought, was thinking I could make 30knts on a flat day especially with the bracket.. Seems like the 140 has plenty of power to push it through
     
  11. Ryan75

    Ryan75 Member

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    I would agree. 140 should be plenty of power. It just needs the flow to prop figured out and the lifting rails and I’d guess it do well. But I could get mid 20’s as it is I just couldn’t make any adjustments and she got lively. The way I have it setup a 90 would do everything I ask of it now. I don’t have my prop specs with me but could get you thosenin a few days if you’d like. I’ll be interested to see how yours does!
     
  12. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    My 2 cents- from my 20' Eastporter rebuild
    Lifting rails helped a tremendous amount with stability and keel direction at speed. Place 2" below true waterline at 11' from transom forward. I also cut the transom down to get the prop deeper in the water and this allowed me to stop cavitation issues on cornering and allowed me to trim the 80 hp Suzuki as it should. IMHO 90 hp would be a perfect fit for that boat. Weight may not be a big deal if you go with a flotation bracket- see ROS boat in Rhode Island for a custom bracket that will extend your water length and take weight off the hull. Good luck with your rebuild! Keep us posted with photos.
     
  13. fordy

    fordy Senior Member

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    Myself and others love working with epoxy and carbon core panels. Light weight cheap and easy to cut


    Carbon core (previously called nida-core) for everything. Order a box of 5 sheets of 1" and get it delivered.



    Transom should be medium to high density coosa board. Dont put any wood back in the boat for structure and you'll have zero worries.

    Bracket would be perfect and it would allow for more trim angle to get the nose down if needed. Keep posting, looks like a great project
     
  14. 26novi

    26novi Member

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    Almost ready to start cutting the transom/stringers/rails and deck out. Planning on building a bunk similar to the one below. Would that be good enough to hold the shape? Thinking about doing two 12’ boards in the center about 2 ft apart and maybe two 6’ boards another 2-3ft out. Toss a few boat stands on the bow and probably call it good. I want to make sure I take the above advice and not build a warp into the hull, sound good enough for support?



    C57B7622-6A29-49F5-8098-E5D2B0AC9CEB.jpeg 267280A9-B517-4DB9-A47D-68B43E66956B.jpeg F941660F-DD19-4328-AAF9-298D4EA5DFBB.jpeg 71095A2B-AD9B-47DC-9337-D8195E7909F5.jpeg 6B926849-75E5-452A-86CB-74C14E3AA109.jpeg
     
  15. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    So for the rest of us whats the cost of what you just mentioned delivered to your location?
    Order a box of 5 sheets of 1" and get it delivered.
     
  16. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    Just make sure the gunnels are supported so they don't flex out. Couple of vertical supports wont hurt off that bunk.
     
  17. fordy

    fordy Senior Member

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    I think it was 580$ delivered. I could lift the entire box over my head and into the garage. Try that with plywood.

    Also there is airex Or baltek which might hold screws better if you're gonna screw alot of things to the deck
     
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  18. fordy

    fordy Senior Member

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    Ok it was 566 for 5 sheets. This was two years ago. I loved the stuff, its 80$ per sheet and then flat rate shipping of 120$ which stinks but not if you buy alot of sheets.
     

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  19. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    Occupation:
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    This time Sportcraft 222 w/225 OB Johnson..wishing for a DE
    Wow,
    I like it. Looked into it tonight;

    Plastic Honeycomb – Boxes


    Plastic Honeycomb – Boxes
    $925.44 – $2,160.00
    Core Thickness
    Surface Treatment Clear
    $1,071.36
    Quantity
    5
    Add to cart

    Ouch the went up a bit in 2 years.
     
  20. kcassells

    kcassells Senior Member

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    Occupation:
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    This time Sportcraft 222 w/225 OB Johnson..wishing for a DE
    Found this there, Glad I looked further. Cool!
    Product Price Quantity Total
    ×
    Plastic Honeycomb - Sheets
    Core Thickness:
    25mm (1.00in)
    Surface Treatment:
    Non-scored
    $89.28
    Quantity
    5
    $446.40
    Update cart
    ;)
     

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