Shaft tube replacement

Discussion in 'Downeast Projects and Boat Building' started by speedwagon, Jun 7, 2019.

  1. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    a couple 2x10’s would hold it but you need to think about the length of the chainfall/lifting assembly as a whole because you quickly run our of head height. Chainfall has a min length where it will lift etc..

    Also, if its been 1” off center for the last how many years it will prob work just fine that way for the next 20. I would want to fix that too but would prob leave the mounts and find a way to make them work/rotate in place. 1” at the tip of the shaft would be a small change at the mount locations. No way to get those mounts moving?
     
  2. speedwagon

    speedwagon Senior Member

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    That's better to go off the top of the stringers than the deck.
    Yeah, I should try to move it. Just waiting on the pb blaster marinade to loosen the nuts up.
     
  3. speedwagon

    speedwagon Senior Member

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    Got the engine sliding around and roughly aligned, thanks for the words of support. Here's a pic of the jig I used to steady the aft end of the shaft and tube. The blocking looks sketchy here but it's just the perspective. 20190615_190247.jpg 20190617_160921.jpg

    The tube is tabbed in now so I can remove the shaft and start filling in the cut. The plan is to bring the deadwood to a fine taper close to the prop and reinforce the shoe/skeg too.
     
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  4. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    looking good!;)
     
  5. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    Looks like an up skirt pic of my old girlfriend (!!!):eek:
     

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  6. El Mar

    El Mar Captain

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    She had a shaft tube? :eek:
     
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  7. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    Mine... 3 1/2" O.D...
     
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  8. El Mar

    El Mar Captain

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    I think you meant L.O.A.:D
     
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  9. leaky

    leaky Captain

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    If you look at my holland build thread may give you ideas. I used a 6x6 blocked up on outsides of the "dashboard", then braced down to hull 2 places toward the center, i beam trolley, chainfall.. 6x6 gantry to hold i beam on the aft side. Was not real expensive even way oversized. Just to lift it you could skip some parts obviously.
     
  10. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    both.... I dont reach the bottom but I tear the shit out of the sides.

    OK back to regular programming here folks :)
     
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  11. speedwagon

    speedwagon Senior Member

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    20190622_163318.jpg
    The mockup is cut to match the curve of the trailing edge of the blades. Looks a bit strange, cant say I've seen any deadwood faired like it. Maybe it should be faired parellel to the leading edge of the blades? Clearance is based on Dave Gerr's rule in his Propeller Handbook .3 x 1/2 prop diameter to deadwood.
     
  12. starrfish

    starrfish Senior Member

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    awesome work. following
     
  13. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    I'd try and leave more open room forward of the prop. Put some nice sweeping lines like you see on some of the faster boats. My understanding is that it allows the water to come off the keel and come together which reduces turbulence at the prop. I thought of fairing out my Jarvis Newman which has a pretty blocky deadwood. My plan is/was to use some thin fiberglass that is cured... to mold off of. Still flexible enough to fit and stiff enough to start the layup on.
     
  14. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    Cue up the capt larry keel pic. Shit we need him today.
     
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  15. speedwagon

    speedwagon Senior Member

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    Stern  Post to tube #6.jpg

    I hear you. Its a fine line and theres a sweet spot somewhere. Too close and theres turbulence and worse vibration and noise, too far and there's a poorly tapered deadwood and possibly more turbulence. If there's vibration I can take some off at next haul out.
    20190623_185937.jpg
    Some progress from today. Rough cut but generally the curves match the trailing edge of prop blade.
     
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  16. Toolate

    Toolate Captain

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    You have a thick old school keel there so its going to be tough.

    @gmac had a great thread about extending his keel/hull and did some fine work with his father and I would have to agree that you could only benefit from leaving as much space there as possible. @oldmud has an old boat that he added fairing blocks to and the difference was huge so the taper is key and more flow is more flow. Think about these pod drives with the wheels facing forward- the idea is the get the prop in the cleanest most unobstructed water. You know what you are doing obv I am just saying. See quote below this box.... :). Any way to cut some off the forward edges of those pieces and just slide them forward a few inches?
     
  17. Keelboater

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    I would add a radius where the straight part of each cut is now, but that's just me. This is coming along nicely and you are making good time! I'm following in your footsteps. The shaft and rudder are coming out today.
     
  18. c1steve

    c1steve Senior Member

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    If you could imitate this Wesmac keel, that probably would be ideal. Always bring the shape back to close to a sharp edge, then square off the final end. A rounded edge causes more turbulence than a squared off edge, if of the same thickness.
    Wesmac keel.JPG
     
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  19. Genius

    Genius Captain

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    ...didn't know that about squaring off. Thanks
     
  20. speedwagon

    speedwagon Senior Member

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    Do you have a carnuba wax brand preference? Are you coating the bearing then epoxy it in?
     

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