Discussion in 'Downeast Projects and Boat Building' started by xbskt, May 1, 2016.
2 on the same boat within a few hours of running time on the engines.
SBar water pumps
What did you go with after that pump?
Did you ever get the end to that story from the owner of those pumps?
save the $$ for the new boat project
Got the heat exchanger off the 6CTA opened up. A lot more gunk in there than I was expecting. I have always drained it in the winter and kept a fresh zinc in there. The gunk isn't rock hard and doesn't feel like it will be too hard to get out. I got a bin from the home store and I'll soak the heat exchanger in muriatic acid / water mix for a day or two and see what I see.. There was a cloud of debris in the solution by the time I left it for the night.
More to follow.
3 hours on. Good start. I'll leave it overnight and rinse in the AM.
Are you going to neutralize it when you are done? Beware of the fumes, they can rust everything and anything in the immediate vicinity.
Jeff, is that last spot we see there just on that side? Looks like part of the zinc to me. is that blue RTV you use to seal the caps ? Oh and are you sure they are zinc and not aluminum?
Yeah. Got up this morning and gave it a good long rinse till water ran clear and then gave it some more. You are correct that the fumes are nasty and I am being cautious.
Yes Don, that is zinc buildup. It was gone this morning. Blue RTV was just a precaution. I don't think it was necessary and I used gasket sealer this time for my own piece of mind. The heat exchanger is 27 years old and I figure there might be slight imperfections on the faces to fill in. Might not be necessary but also no reason not to. Cleans up with acetone next time.
The heat Exchanger is serviced. It turns out the seaboard kit is way overkill for my old motor. The kit comes with a lot of schwag to service the later higher horsepower C series that also have the big aluminum aftercoolers. I really just need heat exchanger end cap gaskets and 1 zinc. The cleaning rod I could make myself out of 1/8" inch rod. Live and learn.
The goop all came out as did the small pile of zinc leaving only some bits of rubber in a few of the tubes. I got those out with the use of the "special" rod.
Cleaned up the end faces and caps, gasket sealer on the meeting surfaces, a little grease on the end cap bolt and put the caps back on where I had them indexed just to be sure.
A new zinc with pipe dope and Robert is your mothers' brother.
On to the raw water pump.
I like it. You know you can get different size brazing rods to clean out the tubes. Brass or Bronze make good cleaning rods. Also a cheap rifle cleaning kit with brushes and swabs can make your work real easy. I like the way you indexed the caps, a good thing to get use to.
And the raw water pump has it's turn.
I called Cummins and got pricing on the rebuild kits for my Sherwood pump.
They have a basic kit which is essentially an impeller swap kit. $220 An intermediate kit and a master kit. The intermediate kit he could not say what was included for $450. and the master kit is a complete rebuild kit with everything plus bearings bushings and gear. The intermediate kit is what I think I need but annoyingly the guy on the phone could not tell me what it included.
On top of that, in order to get pricing, I needed to open an account with Cummins. After I went through that motion I was told that as mine was a new account, I would need to come to my nearest distributor to pay and pick up in person. Once I had done that I would be able to pay by CC on the phone and they would ship to me on Nantucket.
The boat this is going in is for sale so I don't want to spend money I am sure to lose for parts I don't need. It would be nice to know for sure what an intermediate kit includes but regardless it is more than I want to spend and I really don't think it need a complete rebuild. The gear and shaft spin freely with no play or noise in the bearing or bushing.
Long story longer, I have decided to replace the cam that looks quite worn and the thrust spacer the impeller rotates on that is also grooved from ages of RPM's and salt water.
Now I just need to find a more helpful parts source.
For the $450 I know where you could get a new old stock pump. LOL
I haven't forgotten your offer Gurryman. Thanks. I am trying to do this on the cheap and if I can't find just these couple pieces will have to take you up on it.
Cleaned, wirewheeled, solvent sprayed, taped, etching primered, high build primered and ready for some Ford Tractor grey.
For sale but it never ends.
50 degrees today. We were on the Cape so she was calling me. Took a little turn on the stands and had a look inside. All is good. We will likely have her for the summer and that is ok with me.
There are worse things.
Around and around I went and my raw water pump is so old it is no longer supported by Sherwood although some parts will cross to later models.
The guy in the know at Seaboard Marine was nice enough to help me find another source for parts out of Florida.
The replacement parts cost almost as much as the complete replacement pump I finally came to my senses and got at a fair price from Gurryman. Good guy to deal with. Thanks Gurryman.
The Seaboard guy also said I have one of the earliest 6CTA's he's ever heard of based on the serial number. Definitely one of the oldest he has heard of still in operation. Continuos duty and going strong.
The turbo is done. Looks like new. I don't even want to take the wrapping off. Thanks to Regman99 for the dropoff.
Boats really aren't their thing but they are happy to do the job. I told them the word was out. Great work and good value.
It will need paint but I am a happy customer.
Looks great, whoever buys your boat will have full knowledge of your build. Oh yeah and take the plastic off before you fire her up or you'll Never get it off. On another note you should save that old pump. You can get the bore returned to just oversize and looking like new then when you see the cam somewhere you can have a spare pump. Even the cam can be rebuilt provided it's not to bad.