tutorial for replacing deck and stringers on something like an old 20' Eastporter?

Discussion in 'Downeast Boat General Discussion' started by MAArcher, Jan 15, 2020 at 11:53 AM.

  1. MAArcher

    MAArcher Member

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    Does any one know of an online video or photo tutorial of the steps to take to replace the deck and stringers in something like an old Eastporter?
    Thanks!
     
  2. Diesel Jerry

    Diesel Jerry Captain

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    @Eastporter
    I will be doing my Eastporter as soon as I finish my “honey do” list.
     
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  3. Dslpwr

    Dslpwr Captain

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    Is list getting smaller or larger? Mine always get larger before they start to shrink!
     
  4. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    Eastporter 20' 1976/2011 Rebuild
     
  5. MAArcher

    MAArcher Member

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    Did you "bed" the stringers? I watched an old "Ship Shape TV" and in that boat they bed the stringers in some sort of compound saying that if there was direct contact with the stringers and the hull it would be weaker because if you hit something it could actually shear the hull along the stringers. Beding the stringers allowed a little flex in the hull I guess. Also, is there any benefit to painting all the lumber? Or maybe coating everything with something like Flex Seal spray or bedliner before you put the deck down?

    Any pro's and cons of using pourable flotation foam rather than the foam boards?

    I don't have the boat but I just saw one for sale where the restoration is in process, the deck is up and some of the stringers are down. Not sure if it was being done right so just wondering what it would take if I did it over the right way if its not right.
     
  6. fordy

    fordy Senior Member

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    It sounds like your about 3 months of research behind attempting a project like this.

    The reason you don't see videos of this process is because the camera would be ruined by all the fiberglass dust
     
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  7. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    Stringers were bedded in thickened epoxy and then glassed over. I don't think many people worry about the hull to stringer hard spots, but it you want to add a piece of foam and then glass a few layers it would be fine.
     
  8. MAArcher

    MAArcher Member

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    Perfect, its about three months until its warm enough to go outside and start a project like this!
     
  9. MAArcher

    MAArcher Member

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    More trouble than its worth?
     

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  10. Diesel Jerry

    Diesel Jerry Captain

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    Nope. As long as the hull is in good shape.
     
  11. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    I think the hard work has been done. Glass the stringers in, bilge paint, 3/4" dry PT plywood, glass, nonskid. What's the transom like?
     
  12. MAArcher

    MAArcher Member

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    Don't know yet. Asked for pics but haven't heard back. Hope to go take a look at it tomorrow.
     
  13. powderpro

    powderpro Captain

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    I've seen guys tackle way worse
     
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  14. Diesel Jerry

    Diesel Jerry Captain

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    Don’t forget in the Downeast....actually entire boating world there is more than one way to get things done. I am using Eastporters build as a guideline, but not my gospel. Not that he did anything wrong because he didn’t. I will not be using wood. I will be using Coosa. For one reason, I don’t want to be a hypocrite. I constantly preach the use of composites on here if I deferred to using wood that would remove value from what I have stated in the past. To be devils advocate on myself I have seen many boats finished with PT and plywood that have lasted 30 plus years.
    You are not 3 months behind in anything. You will find tons of information on rehabbing a boat on this forum. Look up builds by PowderPro, Leaky, and many others. My ears are always open and willing to help.
     
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  15. MAArcher

    MAArcher Member

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    Just based on those few pics and that there's a old 90hp evinrude (condition unknown) as well as a parts motor that go with it, and some lumber for the project, what do you think would be a good price to pay? It might work out that I can go check out the boat tomorrow. I'm thinking the trailers's worth $500 if its in good condition and a stripped hull like that might be worth $500, and even if just for parts the motors have to be worth something, so if I can get the whole kit and caboodle for under $1k I'd be doing OK and would probably be able to recoup my investment after its all said and done, maybe even come out ahead of the game?
     
  16. fordy

    fordy Senior Member

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    Doesn't look like it self bails. For some styles of boating that doesn't matter
     
  17. Eastporter

    Eastporter Captain

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    Most Eastporter 20s do self bail, but the scupper may be close to the waterline so they plug it (taking out to drain).
     
  18. fordy

    fordy Senior Member

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    That doesn't count as self bailing
     
  19. Diesel Jerry

    Diesel Jerry Captain

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    Mine was self bailing. Most are. I am dropping my deck height so it will no longer be self bailing. I will be doing a...sump of sorts against the transom with two bilge pumps.
     
  20. MAArcher

    MAArcher Member

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    Given that the deck is being replace, maybe it could be raised a bit and scuppers relocated, or use ball scuppers if they are just a little close where it is. Either way I'd make is self bailing I think. The similar boat I had briefly before had a 1" drain/scupper that was right at the waterline and was partially blocked by the motor bracket. I didn't even know it was there the first time I put it in the water and didn't figure it out until my son asked "Dad, are we sinking? I was tied up at the dock and busy trying to get the motor started, didn't even notice we were taking on some water.

    Eastporter, on the Recess it looks like you had round scuppers then switched over to larger rectangle ones, any reason for that?
     

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