Wash down pump set up.

xbskt

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how did you post a video ?
I load it into my youtube account.
Click on share
Copy the link
Paste the link into the DEBF post
The crazy series of numbers from youtube magically turns into a video on DEBF.
Shazam!
 

Diesel Jerry

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xbskt

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Put an amp clamp on the positive wire before and after you put your thumb on the hose. Wouldn’t be surprised if you saw the draw change.
Can do. I wouldn't be surprised if the change is minimal.
 

Genius

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It would be less. Less work is being done. It's just physics with a centrifugal pump.

We used to strip ballast tanks with large centrifugal pumps with a variable discharge pump. The control panel had a current meter we would use to help identify when the pump was "working". Cracking the discharge valve lowered the current flow, opening the variable control valve would increase the flow and increase the current flow.
 
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southshore30

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Bill
I’ve been using a Rule 17A for washdown on every boat i’ve owned & the Flowers now has one.
On its own thru hull & sea cock then pump is mounted right off the sea cock with a small length of 1 1/2 hose then plumbed up to deck as you did (good planning with the 1 1/2 pvc shut off as they will flow while under way with pump off if you leave a hose on the deck)
For deck hose i use a white 1 1/2 vacuum hose with wire reinforced. It’s sold at West Maring for close to $8 per ft but i found it on Amazon. 25’ roll for under $30. (i’ll try to dig up a link where i found it)
End of the hose i have a reducer that goes from 1 1/2 down to 3/4.
ton of pressure & volume !!!
What do you use for a reducer? Is that hose clamped in? I have the same thing. I used to use 1 1/4 hose as it was a little easier to manage and made a little more pressure but I couldn’t find a stainless hose barb 1.5” threads by 1.25 barb
 

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leaky

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For keeping primed have you tried the positive flow wedge strainer. On all the boat here with pacers the water drives though them out the hose with out the pacer even turned on.
By that do you mean essentially a scoop strainer but the style that is more boxy?

If so, ya all those scoopes work and are really required, until you go into reverse. Then they operate as a vacuum. Popping the boat in reverse to fight a fish or set the anchor can airlock the pump. Can be a pain to get the pump going again at that point too if you are not in a position to travel forward at speed again.

Sounds like a minor problem until the bait you worked so hard to find (and that might be 20 miles away) ends up dead when you are not paying attention.

For the above reason with livewells I like a separate aerator and the feed for the pump to come in at the top, or for the hose to ar least to run up to the top, else the well can actually even drain out the inlet hose during these incidents. A separate aerator gives you a buffer so if you don't notice what's happening the bait will live for awhile and/or you can work around the problem temporarily with the flick of a switch.
 

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Bpd92

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Learned something new is right. That was opposite of what I though would happen. I was concerned that restricting the pump would add amperage as the motor is working harder, but I forgot Ohms law, as resistance is increased current is decreased.
Jerry, Ohms law is talking about electrical resistance, though in this case it correlates to water resistance. The impellor in a centrifugual pump has a power curve just like a propellor and if you get above the curve by choking in on the discharge, the impellor will slip. This is why the amperage drops off, the impellor can no longer do work.

It is counter-intuitive, but as @Genius says, this is standard practice for stripping using large ballast water pumps on ships.
 
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