There are a zillion choices, Teak Oil is something that only lasts a few months though, kinda a pain to keep up with. Anything that coats the surface to a sheen eventually cracks and requires stripping, kinda a pain too.

I always liked Sikkens Cetol on my mahogany and teak, longer lasting than teak oil or stains, seals but doesn't cover the surface to the point where you need to do much prep to re-coat down the line. Not sure if the formulas have made it a different product (due to environmental crap) in recent years but was still a good product when many others had switched to low VOC stuff.

 

There are a zillion choices, Teak Oil is something that only lasts a few months though, kinda a pain to keep up with. Anything that coats the surface to a sheen eventually cracks and requires stripping, kinda a pain too.

I always liked Sikkens Cetol on my mahogany and teak, longer lasting than teak oil or stains, seals but doesn't cover the surface to the point where you need to do much prep to re-coat down the line. Not sure if the formulas have made it a different product (due to environmental crap) in recent years but was still a good product when many others had switched to low VOC stuff.

here is their description. Do you think it's the same? Costs @ 40 bucks qt.Always looking for a good product.

Size:Quart
Cetol Marine with "Next Wave" UV-absorbing technology is a durable translucent protective wood finish for use above the waterline on interior and exterior woods. "Next Wave" technology is the next generation of Cetol Marine from Sikkens with a unique UV-absorbing package, with its specialty resins and advanced UV absorbers that provide greater protection, durability and longevity. Cetol Marine provides a flexible breathable finish along with weather protection for teak and other hard woods all with ease of application and maintenance. It is formulated with "Next Wave" technology, special alkyd resin and high quality synthetic UV-absorbing pigments which shields wood against damaging UV rays and produces an attractive dark amber appearance on wood.

 

I would leave it natural or just oil the whole thing But plan on doing that 3x a summer to keep up with it. Varnish looks good but is slick and dangerous. I have had them all and just leave mine silver now. Light sand every couple years.

 

Thanks guys. It looks good when it is wet so maybe just keep spraying it with a hose! Prob go the oil route but try to do a good job on cleaning and several coats.

 

I used Starbrite Teak Sealer (clear) this past year and was quite happy.... used on handrails, coaming, cockpit trim and the swim platform. Lasted well... maybe could have used mid season touch up, but never faded out like oil has for me on other boats in the past.

plan to do light sand and use again next year.

 

Epifanes will look better but require more upkeep and can get slippery. Teak oil only looks good for awhile.

IMO the swim platform is one piece of teak that you should let silver out, like a teak deck.

 

I’m a fan of all natural. Give it a good sand with 80 then 120 and see how you like it. It brings the natural oils out. It will turn blonde in the water and slowly darken up. You can clean with a team cleaner and brightener halfway through the summer and it will keep to the end of the season. Sporty boats don’t oil or treat the teak cockpits or they would get hot or slippery

 

Mine is natural, a nice silver.
As said before, varnish is slippery!

 

I use several coats of Sikkens Cetol before spring launch. Easy to apply and maintain; key is not to apply it where she'll sit in the direct sun. Only took me about 10 seasons to figure that out; despite the fact it says it right on the label

 

Which "color"?

 

Well an additional question to this swim platform. The deck is held down with some #12 stainless screws from the transom hardware frame. Several of these have stripped over time so really no good purchase when screwed in. Any idea to fill hole with something and then run the screw back in. Bondo, 5200? what you guys think. Fill the hole, let the shit set up good and then run the screw back in for better adhesion. Comments?

Thanks John

 

Epoxy would be the best choice IMO, thickened with colloidal silica. If the screws are on the top and visible, the epoxy turns yellow with UV light and may become unsightly.

 

View attachment 91658

Hi to you all. Boat is on the hard now and I took off the swim platform. I was to re-finish it in the shop over the winter so I will do a real good job cleaning and prep work. My big question is should I finish it in Epifanes or Teak oil or better yet, Epifanes on the bottom water side and metal edge side for a good seal and then Teak oil on the top for no skid. Once she is on I can't get at the underside so I was just thinking Epifnase that. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks John

FYI, I love the looks of your boat!

 

Armada clear wood finish. I used Cetol for years. As soon as water gets under it, it peels and has to be refinished. Try the Armada, you'll like it.

 

I think if its peeling you are using it wrong. Maybe this is the difference between marine and the standard stuff but what I used doesn't leave a film on the wood to speak of, is in between a stain & a urethane, fills the grain a little but mostly cures in the wood, no way to peel unless slopped on.

 

Fishonnelsons,

Thanks for the compliment. And advice.

 

I think you should sell her to me and go larger

 

Ha, only had her a year. Lost a Cape Dory 28 Open Fisherman we had of 33 years to a fire June of 19. I had the hard top built and installed at Marine Metal Fabricators in Bristol RI over the winter. Been a long year of constant updates and work. She is looking good now. 210 Cummins 6BT. Twin disc gear. 550 hours nice running boat. This winter I think I'm getting the Furuno DRS4W wireless radar and a new Furuno GP1971F chart plotter. I will keep my Garmin 741xs for back up. Outside of that, pretty well good to go.

I like you boat also. Looked at the website, nice.

 

View attachment 91658

Hi to you all. Boat is on the hard now and I took off the swim platform. I was to re-finish it in the shop over the winter so I will do a real good job cleaning and prep work. My big question is should I finish it in Epifanes or Teak oil or better yet, Epifanes on the bottom water side and metal edge side for a good seal and then Teak oil on the top for no skid. Once she is on I can't get at the underside so I was just thinking Epifnase that. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks John

Pressure washing, A good sanding to 220, multiple coats(5-6) with Sikkens Cetol, with a foam brush and scothbright in between coats. Quick coat each season and it's beautiful. Nice golden color and a satin finish, very user friendly.

 

Thanks man. Want to have it look nice, kinda crazy about stuff like that. Guess I spend way to much time cleaning and thinking about this like this. But it just the way I am. Thanks

 

It is really easy to apply, sets up quick so dust isn't an issue and its not slippery when wet like varnish. Just build it up first year then follow up once a year.

 

Like varnish, if you chip it, water get under it. I doubt that I'm using Cetol wrong. It was on for about 6 or 7 years before I refinished.

 

My experience has been different, it only goes 2 or 3 years then just kinda disappears.

Recoating was at worst just a wash with a scotch brite pad mostly to remove any mold/scum, let things dry out completely then go. Worked really nice over mahogany.

Anyway I believe you but not sure why the difference in experience.

 

Don't know Leaky. Maybe exposure to the elements? These are all cetol.

 

All coatings, even when prepped and applied properly have their limits. Some last longer than others. It comes down to repair ability. Sikkens Cetol marine, proved to be an easier repair. Remember this stuff needs an overcoat at least once a year, cause of UV.

 

I have done nothing to my teak swim platform in 10 plus years and I think it looks great natural. If you are going to clean or coat I was taught to only brush against the grain not with the grain and never power wash.

 

A few more pics.

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View attachment 1670988087073.jpeg
View attachment 1670988150377.jpeg

 

A few more pics.

View attachment 147776

 

Hey John,

That is awesome looking. Problem I have is if you stick that in Saltwater it gets ugly fast. I did mine a few years ago, sanded, 7 coats with Epiphanes, you would think I never did shit to it now. I got a good mind to sandblast and paint with Jamestown anti-skid! Sad but its reality, at least here on the east coast in my experience. But that looks really nice!

 

Thanks. I think we take our Fresh Water environment for granted sometimes …
Next best thing, as mentioned, would be to let go natural and forget annual re-coating. Im doing just that on the 47.
Good luck, that’s a beautiful boat.

 

View attachment 91658

Hi to you all. Boat is on the hard now and I took off the swim platform. I was to re-finish it in the shop over the winter so I will do a real good job cleaning and prep work. My big question is should I finish it in Epifanes or Teak oil or better yet, Epifanes on the bottom water side and metal edge side for a good seal and then Teak oil on the top for no skid. Once she is on I can't get at the underside so I was just thinking Epifnase that. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks John

I had an almost identical platform on my old boat. It came with some type of peeling/cracking varnish on it which was extremely slippery when wet. The best solution for ANY teak is to NOT clear coat it with anything (epoxy/ varnish etc..) but rather leave it "Natural". I just love that natural look and so much less work... I think with the solution that I am suggesting no need to use anything on bottom edge either...You dont need to use "Marine" cleaner and brightener - I just linked to Starbrite because they are most widely available in Marine stores etc..

CLEANER: Premium Teak Cleaner - Step 1
BRIGHTENER: Premium Teak Brightener - Step 2

And then finished it off with SEMCO teak oil/sealer - https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/166

I personally used the GOLDTONE pigment, it was very natural looking and would look great at end of year. This product doubles up as a sealer in addition to having oil in it. For the platform It would still look great at the end of the season. Best part was you don't need to non-skid if you just leave it "natural".

I've had boats in past where I used Sikkens or similar, it looked great but every time you sand it down you loose a little bit of material as well.

 

couldn't help but notice how much your boat looks like my 27 Coastal. I know there are other iterations of the same boat by Nauset and Tripp. Came with this rather elegant platform that I removed, started w 80 grit, down to 220, then 5 coats of epiphanes. Picture is prior to refinish. Gave serious consideration to letting her go gray, but the "wow" factor outweighed the aging gracefully.

View attachment Where's Dad stern.JPG

 

couldn't help but notice how much your boat looks like my 27 Coastal. I know there are other iterations of the same boat by Nauset and Tripp. Came with this rather elegant platform that I removed, started w 80 grit, down to 220, then 5 coats of epiphanes. Picture is prior to refinish. Gave serious consideration to letting her go gray, but the "wow" factor outweighed the aging gracefully.

View attachment 147804

I do like your boat also. Flush deck is nice. The engine boxes make it easy to service but do take up room. What is she powered with? I will be taken mine off again and sanding, again, and prob just letting her gray. I loved the look, but it was a bit slippery when all nice, almost slid into the drink a few times. Nice boat.

 

I have a 28 Harris cuttyhunk .
I think some of my woodwork is mahogany
Not teak . I can’t tell the difference .
My question is can I use teak oil on mahogany.
I put cetol on the swim platform last season